Seasonal rotation of California pocket beaches

Abstract Pocket beaches are short, headland‐bound coastal landforms that may exhibit shoreline rotation in response to time‐varying wave conditions. Here we examine the presence, location and style of pocket beach rotation along the 1700 km coast of California using a comprehensive 22‐year satellite‐derived shoreline dataset. These analyses identify 23 pocket beaches that exhibit annual cycles of rotation, and these beaches have two general types. In southern California, pocket beaches rotate clockwise, or towards the south, in the winter season (‘winter southward’ transport of sand). These beaches have symmetric rotation patterns and strong seasonality in wave direction (winter west swell and summer south swell), which is indicative of rotation from seasonal oscillations in longshore sediment transport. In northern California, pocket beaches rotate counterclockwise, or towards the north, in the winter (‘winter northward’ transport of sand), and they are characterized by strong asymmetry (winter beach is overall narrower than the summer beach) and strong seasonality in wave power. Rotation of these northern California beaches is related to both cross‐shore and longshore sediment transport, caused by large west‐to‐northwest swell of the winter and smaller northwest wind waves of the summer. We acknowledge that many more rotating pocket beaches likely exist in California owing to the undersampling of the smallest beaches in the source data. In the end, we conclude that seasonally rotating pocket beaches are a fundamental coastal landform type of the California coast, owing to its wave seasonality and rocky and cliff‐backed morphology.

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Publication Details

Journal
Earth Surface Processes and Landforms
Published
2025-06-22
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1002/esp.70115
Citations
1
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
1.67

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article

Seasonal rotation of California pocket beaches

Jonathan A. Warrick, Daniel Buscombe, Kilian Vos, Andrew C. Ritchie et al.
1 citations
Earth Surface Processes and Landforms
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
1.67
article

Seasonal rotation of California pocket beaches

Jonathan A. Warrick, Daniel Buscombe, Kilian Vos, Andrew C. Ritchie, Bob Battalio
article en
1 citations

Abstract

Abstract Pocket beaches are short, headland‐bound coastal landforms that may exhibit shoreline rotation in response to time‐varying wave conditions. Here we examine the presence, location and style of pocket beach rotation along the 1700 km coast of California using a comprehensive 22‐year satellite‐derived shoreline dataset. These analyses identify 23 pocket beaches that exhibit annual cycles of rotation, and these beaches have two general types. In southern California, pocket beaches rotate clockwise, or towards the south, in the winter season (‘winter southward’ transport of sand). These beaches have symmetric rotation patterns and strong seasonality in wave direction (winter west swell and summer south swell), which is indicative of rotation from seasonal oscillations in longshore sediment transport. In northern California, pocket beaches rotate counterclockwise, or towards the north, in the winter (‘winter northward’ transport of sand), and they are characterized by strong asymmetry (winter beach is overall narrower than the summer beach) and strong seasonality in wave power. Rotation of these northern California beaches is related to both cross‐shore and longshore sediment transport, caused by large west‐to‐northwest swell of the winter and smaller northwest wind waves of the summer. We acknowledge that many more rotating pocket beaches likely exist in California owing to the undersampling of the smallest beaches in the source data. In the end, we conclude that seasonally rotating pocket beaches are a fundamental coastal landform type of the California coast, owing to its wave seasonality and rocky and cliff‐backed morphology.

Earth Surface Processes and LandformsVol. 50(8)
United States Geological Survey (US), NSW Department of Planning and Environment (AU), Pacific Coast Imaging (US)
U.S. Geological Survey
Life below water
Openalex Percentile: Top 18%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
1.67
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