Metallic thread lace: unveiling manufacturing techniques via scientific analysis of historic textiles

Abstract This paper summarizes the results of a study conducted on historical samples of metal threads and lamellas from laces used for the decoration of textile garments, currently housed at the National Museum in Kraków. The items date from the 17th to the 19th century and were produced in Central and Western Europe. A total of 477 samples obtained from 159 lace items were analyzed in order to determine the optimal sequence of analytical procedures to obtain the maximum amount of information about the materials and manufacturing techniques of the metal threads while minimizing the sample size. Four methods were employed as part of this investigation, namely: optical microscopy (OM), X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy (XRF), scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray microanalysis (SEM–EDS), and attenuated total reflectance/Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR). OM facilitated the characterization of the metal threads in terms of color and metal degradation. Further analysis via XRF and SEM–EDS categorized the objects into five groups based on metal thread composition and stratigraphic layers: double-sided gilt silver, brass-plated copper, brass, silver, and silvered copper. Additionally, SEM–EDS and ATR-FTIR spectroscopy allowed to identify the textile substrates as linen, silk, or cotton. Examination of the metal threads enabled us to suggest a potential manufacturing method.