ACTUALIZATION OF TRADITIONAL FOLK COSTUMEIN RUSSIAN CULTURE OF THE XVIII- EARLY XX CENTURIES

The phenomenon of folk costume, including Russian costume, is usually considered within the framework of ethnographic approach, i.e. through the prism of its existence in the conditions of a particular ethnic group and/or territory. This article offers a different, cultural-historical perspective, which allows, first, to see the difference between folk and national costume; second, to trace the transformation of the structure and functionality of folk costume in a noble environment alien to it; third, to form an idea of “Russian costume” as an instrument of internal and external political presentation of the Russian power elites.With the variety of forms of actualization of Russian folk costume to new social conditions (the highest noble circles, the court of Russian emperors), which included copying, quotation, stylization and palimpsest, they all fit into a number of certain common trends, among which are: 1) social relocation and differentiation (change of the traditional social environment of folk costume); 2) ideologization (the solution of a number of state tasks with the help of “Russian costume” - from marking belonging to the upper class to reinforcing the “monarchical myth”); 3) carnivalization (deformation of the authenticity of folk costume, its original symbols, structure, functionality; use of stylization techniques and allusions in the formation of the image of “Russian costume”); 4) internationalization (popularization of “Russian costume” outside Russia, mainly in Europe, as an attribute and the main marker of Russian culture).