Can nature sell beauty? Historicising cosmetic advertising and its modern greenwashing parallels

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to investigate how late 19th- and early 20th-century cosmetic advertisements used natural ingredients to enhance product appeal. This study examines the visual rhetoric and semiotic strategies that symbolised naturalness and sustainability during this period, as well as the ethical implications of these marketing practices, particularly regarding consumer deception and their connection to modern greenwashing. Design/methodology/approach Using a qualitative approach, this study applies multimodal critical discourse analysis, integrating visual rhetoric, semiotic analysis and historical contextualisation. A data set of 118 vintage cosmetic advertisements from archives is analysed to identify key themes. Findings The findings of this study reveal that advertisers romanticised natural ingredients by depicting idyllic nature scenes and associating products with purity, health and beauty. Visual and linguistic strategies were used to create a dual appeal of nature and science, enhancing consumer trust. However, these practices often mask the realities of production processes and ingredient authenticity, leading to potential consumer deception. Research limitations/implications This study focuses on a specific data set of historical advertisements, limiting generalisability across industries. Future research could expand to other sectors or regions. Originality/value This research contributes to understanding the historical roots of greenwashing, offering a transhistorical perspective on the use of nature in advertising. This study highlights the ongoing ethical challenges related to consumer manipulation through deceptive environmental claims.