The NL-SORS method for separation of nonlinear multidirectional waves into incident and reflected wave trains

Physical model tests are often conducted during the design process of coastal structures. The wave climate in such tests often include short-crested nonlinear waves. The structural response is related to the incident waves measured in front of the structure. Existing methods for separation of incident and reflected short-crested waves are based on linear wave theory. For analysis of nonlinear waves, the existing methods are limited to separation of nonlinear long-crested waves. For short-crested waves, the only options so far has been to use estimates without the structure in place. The present paper thus presents a novel method for directional analysis of nonlinear short-crested waves: Non-Linear Single-summation Oblique Reflection Separation (NL-SORS). The method is validated on numerical model data, as for such data, the target is well defined as simulations may be performed with fully absorbing boundaries. Second- and third-order wave theory is used to demonstrate that small errors on the celerity of nonlinear components in the mathematical model of the surface elevation can be obtained if a double narrow-banded directional spectrum is assumed, i.e. the primary frequency and the directional spreading function must be narrow banded. As the increasing nonlinearity of the waves often arise from waves shoaling on a sloping foreshore, the directional spreading of the waves will decrease due to refraction, and a broad directional spreading function will thus not be experienced in highly nonlinear conditions. The new NL-SORS method is shown to successfully decompose nonlinear short-crested wave fields and estimate the directional spectrum hereof. • The new NL-SORS method for analysis of nonlinear short-crested waves is presented. • A simplified nonlinear wave description is applied, and the validity is evaluated. • The method is evaluated and compared to existing methods using numerical model data. • The method improves the estimation of the incident wave time series and spectra.

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Publication Details

Journal
Coastal Engineering
Published
2025-05-30
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104785
Citations
3
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
5.01
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article

The NL-SORS method for separation of nonlinear multidirectional waves into incident and reflected wave trains

S. Iversen, Peter Frigaard, Mads Røge Eldrup, Thomas Lykke Andersen
3 citations
Coastal Engineering
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
5.01
article

The NL-SORS method for separation of nonlinear multidirectional waves into incident and reflected wave trains

S. Iversen, Peter Frigaard, Mads Røge Eldrup, Thomas Lykke Andersen
article en
3 citations

Abstract

Physical model tests are often conducted during the design process of coastal structures. The wave climate in such tests often include short-crested nonlinear waves. The structural response is related to the incident waves measured in front of the structure. Existing methods for separation of incident and reflected short-crested waves are based on linear wave theory. For analysis of nonlinear waves, the existing methods are limited to separation of nonlinear long-crested waves. For short-crested waves, the only options so far has been to use estimates without the structure in place. The present paper thus presents a novel method for directional analysis of nonlinear short-crested waves: Non-Linear Single-summation Oblique Reflection Separation (NL-SORS). The method is validated on numerical model data, as for such data, the target is well defined as simulations may be performed with fully absorbing boundaries. Second- and third-order wave theory is used to demonstrate that small errors on the celerity of nonlinear components in the mathematical model of the surface elevation can be obtained if a double narrow-banded directional spectrum is assumed, i.e. the primary frequency and the directional spreading function must be narrow banded. As the increasing nonlinearity of the waves often arise from waves shoaling on a sloping foreshore, the directional spreading of the waves will decrease due to refraction, and a broad directional spreading function will thus not be experienced in highly nonlinear conditions. The new NL-SORS method is shown to successfully decompose nonlinear short-crested wave fields and estimate the directional spectrum hereof. • The new NL-SORS method for analysis of nonlinear short-crested waves is presented. • A simplified nonlinear wave description is applied, and the validity is evaluated. • The method is evaluated and compared to existing methods using numerical model data. • The method improves the estimation of the incident wave time series and spectra.

Coastal EngineeringVol. 201
Aalborg University (DK)
Climate action
Openalex Percentile: Top 5%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
5.01
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