SPATIAL PATTERNS OF WAVE SIGNATURES IN BEACHES IN ESTUARIES AND BAYS (BEBS) OF DIFFERENT TIDAL RANGES

Beaches in estuaries and bays (BEBs) are common geomorphic features that provide habitats, recreational resources, and coastal infrastructure protection buffers. These BEBs are usually influenced by wind and swell waves, tides, riverine effects, and boat wakes. BEBs typically experience lower wave energy compared to open coast beaches due to different geomorphological and geological conditions. BEBs morphology depends on the relative percentage of the swell, wind, and infragravity waves including low and high-energy events (Hegge et al., 1996). It should also be noted that BEBs geomorphology is also controlled by the tidal-range conditions and asymmetry of tidal currents (Dronkers, 1986). The present study aims to identify the role of the variability of wave climate in the BEB's morphological evolution in micro and mesotidal environments. Our focus lies in determining the proportions of wind, ocean swell, and infragravity waves that collectively influence the wave characteristics of these BEBs.

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Publication Details

Journal
Coastal Engineering Proceedings
Published
2025-05-29
DOI
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v38.management.43
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
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article

SPATIAL PATTERNS OF WAVE SIGNATURES IN BEACHES IN ESTUARIES AND BAYS (BEBS) OF DIFFERENT TIDAL RANGES

Md. Yousuf Gazi, Nicolás Villacieros‐Robineau, Ana Vila‐Concejo, Tristan Salles et al.
Coastal Engineering Proceedings
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
article

SPATIAL PATTERNS OF WAVE SIGNATURES IN BEACHES IN ESTUARIES AND BAYS (BEBS) OF DIFFERENT TIDAL RANGES

Md. Yousuf Gazi, Nicolás Villacieros‐Robineau, Ana Vila‐Concejo, Tristan Salles, Thomas Fellowes, Ratneel Deo, Ana Paula da Silva
article en

Abstract

Beaches in estuaries and bays (BEBs) are common geomorphic features that provide habitats, recreational resources, and coastal infrastructure protection buffers. These BEBs are usually influenced by wind and swell waves, tides, riverine effects, and boat wakes. BEBs typically experience lower wave energy compared to open coast beaches due to different geomorphological and geological conditions. BEBs morphology depends on the relative percentage of the swell, wind, and infragravity waves including low and high-energy events (Hegge et al., 1996). It should also be noted that BEBs geomorphology is also controlled by the tidal-range conditions and asymmetry of tidal currents (Dronkers, 1986). The present study aims to identify the role of the variability of wave climate in the BEB's morphological evolution in micro and mesotidal environments. Our focus lies in determining the proportions of wind, ocean swell, and infragravity waves that collectively influence the wave characteristics of these BEBs.

Coastal Engineering Proceedings(38)
Openalex Percentile: Top 18%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
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