A FIELD OBSERVED PHENOMENON OF WAVE PEAK FREQUENCY DOWN-SHIFTING IN A REEF AREA

Long waves have been received many attentions because they could induce modulations of sediment transport, and contribute to instability in the coastal environment(Liu et al., 2023). In general, the generation mechanism of long waves is mostly through wave-breaking (Péquignet, Becker, and Merrifield, 2014), wave-current interaction(Ho, Merrifield, and Pizzo, 2023), and harbor resonance(Gao et al., 2021). Dissipation of short waves might also cause wave peak frequency down-shifting in shallow reef regions (Huang et al., 2012). We found a field observed phenomenon of wave peak frequency down-shifting (WPFDS) in a reef area based on a yearly long-term monitoring of waves in shallow waters by pressure sensors and in offshore open sea by wave buoy over a reef area, Taoyuan, Taiwan. This study aims to reported and try to clarify the mechanism and factors for the new observed phenomenon of wave peak frequency down-shift at the algal reef.