MECHANISMS OF SURFONE MIXING IN A 3D WAVE RESOLVING MODEL

Flash rips and surf eddies are transient horizontal structures of 10-100 m scale in the nearshore zone, which are largely due to the vorticity supply of short-crested waves. Recently, a 3D wave resolving model (CROCO) has revealed previously unknown coastal dynamics, in particular the modification of turbulent cascades and a vertical shear instability leading to new eddy structures that we call mini-rips (Marchesiello et al., 2021). These are small, ubiquitous filamentary vortices covering the surfzone, spaced every 5 m or so in the longshore direction and evolving in the infragravity frequency range. Mini-rips are not reported in observational studies although they are visible in suspended sediment and foam structures, and while they resemble streamwise vortices formed by breaking waves, they are of larger space and time scales.

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Publication Details

Journal
Coastal Engineering Proceedings
Published
2025-05-29
DOI
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v38.currents.2
Primary Topic
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
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article

MECHANISMS OF SURFONE MIXING IN A 3D WAVE RESOLVING MODEL

Simon Treillou, Patrick Marchesiello
Coastal Engineering Proceedings
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
article

MECHANISMS OF SURFONE MIXING IN A 3D WAVE RESOLVING MODEL

Simon Treillou, Patrick Marchesiello
article en

Abstract

Flash rips and surf eddies are transient horizontal structures of 10-100 m scale in the nearshore zone, which are largely due to the vorticity supply of short-crested waves. Recently, a 3D wave resolving model (CROCO) has revealed previously unknown coastal dynamics, in particular the modification of turbulent cascades and a vertical shear instability leading to new eddy structures that we call mini-rips (Marchesiello et al., 2021). These are small, ubiquitous filamentary vortices covering the surfzone, spaced every 5 m or so in the longshore direction and evolving in the infragravity frequency range. Mini-rips are not reported in observational studies although they are visible in suspended sediment and foam structures, and while they resemble streamwise vortices formed by breaking waves, they are of larger space and time scales.

Coastal Engineering Proceedings(38)
Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (CG)
Openalex Percentile: Top 51%
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
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