EXPECTED WAVE ENERGY FLUX OF PREDICTED SEA STATES

Whether coupled into an earth-system model or as separate tool, third-generation wave models (e.g. WAVEWATCHIII, WAM, SWAN) are the tools used by weather centers and researchers to describe the evolution of expected sea-states. Due to the complicated nature of the wave generation process, wave phases are unpredictable, thus the sea states are represented by the distribution of the wave action density over a finite frequency range.