SPH NUMERICAL SIMULATIONS OF WAVE BREAKING OVER A BARRED BEACH

The coastal region is one of the most densely populated areas in the world and home to important economic activities, but it is particularly vulnerable to erosion and flooding, which is expected to become more severe due to rising sea levels and more frequent storms. In this scenario, the understanding of coastal hydrodynamics and the availability of reliable hydrodynamic models are crucial for the design of effective coastal defense measures. In particular, more in-depth studies are needed on the hydrodynamics of the surf zone, which plays a crucial role in nearshore erosion and sedimentation processes but is not yet fully understood.