Empirical Geomorphic Approach to Complement Morphodynamic Modeling on Embayed Beaches

In a coastal engineering project, hydrodynamic models are used to study wave transformations and impacts on structures, while morphodynamic models are applied to calculate the response and evolution of sedimentary beaches. Conventionally, laboratory experiments and numerical modeling have been called to investigate beach changes, particularly those resulting in the formation of an embayed beach. The former is undertaken in a wave basin, necessitating a huge outdoor facility to fit a project with large dimensions, numerous instrumentations, and manpower, while the latter is performed by powerful numerical models on a desktop, requiring only the advent of computing power and professional skills. Conventionally, both approaches have successfully achieved the expected outcome, though differing in cost and time frame. On the contrary, an efficient empirical geomorphic model for headland-bay beaches has been available since 1989 for assessing the planform stability of a crenulated beach in static equilibrium. The model can readily produce a graphic display of the static bay shape aided by a supporting software within a shorter time frame (in a couple of minutes), instead of in hours or days in laboratory tests and numerical modeling. Several practical examples drawn by the software MeePaSoL for the empirical model are presented to complement the results of a morphodynamic model in a wave basin, as well as to guide the modeler to terminate the programming when equilibrium is reached. We believe this alternative approach could be helpful for the experimentalists and numerical modelers on large engineering projects associated with shoreline beach evolution and shore protection, especially for time-saving and reducing manpower and cost.

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Publication Details

Journal
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Published
2025-05-27
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13061053
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
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article

Empirical Geomorphic Approach to Complement Morphodynamic Modeling on Embayed Beaches

John R. C. Hsu, Jung Lyul Lee, Changbin Lim
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
article

Empirical Geomorphic Approach to Complement Morphodynamic Modeling on Embayed Beaches

John R. C. Hsu, Jung Lyul Lee, Changbin Lim
article en

Abstract

In a coastal engineering project, hydrodynamic models are used to study wave transformations and impacts on structures, while morphodynamic models are applied to calculate the response and evolution of sedimentary beaches. Conventionally, laboratory experiments and numerical modeling have been called to investigate beach changes, particularly those resulting in the formation of an embayed beach. The former is undertaken in a wave basin, necessitating a huge outdoor facility to fit a project with large dimensions, numerous instrumentations, and manpower, while the latter is performed by powerful numerical models on a desktop, requiring only the advent of computing power and professional skills. Conventionally, both approaches have successfully achieved the expected outcome, though differing in cost and time frame. On the contrary, an efficient empirical geomorphic model for headland-bay beaches has been available since 1989 for assessing the planform stability of a crenulated beach in static equilibrium. The model can readily produce a graphic display of the static bay shape aided by a supporting software within a shorter time frame (in a couple of minutes), instead of in hours or days in laboratory tests and numerical modeling. Several practical examples drawn by the software MeePaSoL for the empirical model are presented to complement the results of a morphodynamic model in a wave basin, as well as to guide the modeler to terminate the programming when equilibrium is reached. We believe this alternative approach could be helpful for the experimentalists and numerical modelers on large engineering projects associated with shoreline beach evolution and shore protection, especially for time-saving and reducing manpower and cost.

Journal of Marine Science and EngineeringVol. 13(6)
National Sun Yat-sen University (TW), The University of Western Australia (AU), Sungkyunkwan University (KR)
Openalex Percentile: Top 86%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
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Empirical Geomorphic Approach to Complement Morphodynamic Modeling on Embayed Beaches — John R. C. Hsu, Jung Lyul Lee, et al. · Journal of Marine Science and Engineering (2025) | TGRS Research Map | TGRS