History and ethnography of the popular gastronomic culture leading to the BajaMed movement in Baja California, Mexico

Abstract This essay addresses how the interconnection between humans, food, and the natural environment have interacted throughout time to shape a gastronomic culture in the Baja California Peninsula. The intrinsic relationship between local cuisine and biodiversity is evident in this region, where relative geographic isolation has allowed contemporary food vendors to create unique dishes from locally available ingredients. The arrival of Mediterranean fruits and vegetables during the missionary period, along with a biodiverse matrix of resources and a later and constant influx of migrants gave rise to “BajaMed” cuisine, characterized by its unique blend of flavors and culinary techniques. This cuisine has gained international recognition and established the city of Ensenada, Baja California as a renowned culinary destination and as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. The essay is based on a deep ethnographic approach and uses grounded theory, colloquial conversations, surveys, and documentary research to analyze the evolution of the gastronomic culture in Ensenada, from prehistoric times to the present, highlighting the sustained exploitation of marine resources and emphasizing the potential of the biological and cultural matrix of the Peninsula for creating a contemporary economy based on BajaMed cuisine. It is suggested that this matrix could be a driving force for economic development and more importantly, for achieving food justice and food security in the region. Recognition of the history and identification of trends towards sustainable catering and sustainable cuisine provides information that decision-makers can use to develop strategies to support the resilience of these systems.