A dispersive effective equation for transverse propagation of planar shallow water waves over periodic bathymetry

Abstract We study the behaviour of shallow water waves propagating over bathymetry that varies periodically in one direction and is constant in the other. Plane waves travelling along the constant direction are known to evolve into solitary waves, due to an effective dispersion. We apply multiple-scale perturbation theory to derive an effective constant-coefficient system of equations, showing that the transversely averaged wave approximately satisfies a Boussinesq-type equation, while the lateral variation in the wave is related to certain integral functions of the bathymetry. Thus the homogenized equations not only accurately describe these waves but also predict their full two-dimensional shape in some detail. Numerical experiments confirm the good agreement between the effective equations and the variable-bathymetry shallow water equations.

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Publication Details

Journal
Journal of Nonlinear Waves
Published
2025-01-01
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1017/jnw.2025.1
Citations
1
Primary Topic
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
1.79

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article

A dispersive effective equation for transverse propagation of planar shallow water waves over periodic bathymetry

David I. Ketcheson, Giovanni Russo
1 citations
Journal of Nonlinear Waves
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
1.79
article

A dispersive effective equation for transverse propagation of planar shallow water waves over periodic bathymetry

David I. Ketcheson, Giovanni Russo
article en
1 citations

Abstract

Abstract We study the behaviour of shallow water waves propagating over bathymetry that varies periodically in one direction and is constant in the other. Plane waves travelling along the constant direction are known to evolve into solitary waves, due to an effective dispersion. We apply multiple-scale perturbation theory to derive an effective constant-coefficient system of equations, showing that the transversely averaged wave approximately satisfies a Boussinesq-type equation, while the lateral variation in the wave is related to certain integral functions of the bathymetry. Thus the homogenized equations not only accurately describe these waves but also predict their full two-dimensional shape in some detail. Numerical experiments confirm the good agreement between the effective equations and the variable-bathymetry shallow water equations.

Journal of Nonlinear WavesVol. 1
University of Catania (IT), King Abdullah University of Science and Technology (SA)
King Abdullah University of Science and Technology
Openalex Percentile: Top 18%
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
1.79
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