Marine Algae Extract-Loaded Nanoemulsions: A Spectrophotometric Approach to Broad-Spectrum Photoprotection

The depletion of the ozone layer and climate change have increased exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, driving the search for natural photoprotective agents. Marine macroalgae, particularly Gracilaria sp. (Rhodophyta) and Sargassum polyceratium (Ochrophyta), are rich in UV-absorbing bioactives, such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) and fucoxanthin, offering natural alternatives to synthetic sunscreens. This study aimed to develop and optimize a nanoemulsion incorporating both algal extracts, with MAAs and fucoxanthin strategically distributed in the aqueous and oil phases, respectively, to enhance synergistic broad-spectrum UV protection. MAAs were quantified in Gracilaria sp. using UHPLC-DAD, revealing 8.03 mg/g dry weight, primarily composed of shinorine and porphyra-334. Fucoxanthin was identified in S. polyceratium at 0.98 mg/g dry weight. A Box–Behnken design (BBD) was employed to optimize the nanoemulsion, targeting minimal droplet size and optimal ζ potential. The resulting formulation achieved a droplet size less than 100 nm and a ζ potential less than −25.0 mV. In vitro spectrophotometric analysis demonstrated significant photoprotective potential. The nanoemulsion containing only 375 ppm of algal extracts exhibited a UVA ratio of 1.25 and a critical wavelength of 379 nm, meeting the criteria for broad-spectrum protection and outperforming the commercial natural filter Helioguard®365. These results confirm the efficacy of combining red and brown algae extracts in a nanoemulsion platform to deliver sustainable, low-dose photoprotection. This work presents, for the first time, the incorporation of red and brown algae extracts into a single nanoemulsion system, representing a novel strategy to maximize the combined photoprotective potential of MAAs and fucoxanthin. Ultimately, this investigation contributes to the growing field of marine-derived sunscreens and supports the advancement of “blue beauty” innovations aligned with eco-conscious formulation principles.

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Publication Details

Journal
Cosmetics
Published
2025-05-15
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030101
Citations
3
Primary Topic
Bee Products Chemical Analysis
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
5.02

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article

Marine Algae Extract-Loaded Nanoemulsions: A Spectrophotometric Approach to Broad-Spectrum Photoprotection

Diana Marcela Aragón, Vanessa Urrea‐Victoria, Julian Tello Quiroz, Ingrid Andrea Rodríguez et al.
3 citations
Cosmetics
Bee Products Chemical Analysis
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article

Marine Algae Extract-Loaded Nanoemulsions: A Spectrophotometric Approach to Broad-Spectrum Photoprotection

Diana Marcela Aragón, Vanessa Urrea‐Victoria, Julian Tello Quiroz, Ingrid Andrea Rodríguez, Leonardo Castellanos
article en
3 citations

Abstract

The depletion of the ozone layer and climate change have increased exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, driving the search for natural photoprotective agents. Marine macroalgae, particularly Gracilaria sp. (Rhodophyta) and Sargassum polyceratium (Ochrophyta), are rich in UV-absorbing bioactives, such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) and fucoxanthin, offering natural alternatives to synthetic sunscreens. This study aimed to develop and optimize a nanoemulsion incorporating both algal extracts, with MAAs and fucoxanthin strategically distributed in the aqueous and oil phases, respectively, to enhance synergistic broad-spectrum UV protection. MAAs were quantified in Gracilaria sp. using UHPLC-DAD, revealing 8.03 mg/g dry weight, primarily composed of shinorine and porphyra-334. Fucoxanthin was identified in S. polyceratium at 0.98 mg/g dry weight. A Box–Behnken design (BBD) was employed to optimize the nanoemulsion, targeting minimal droplet size and optimal ζ potential. The resulting formulation achieved a droplet size less than 100 nm and a ζ potential less than −25.0 mV. In vitro spectrophotometric analysis demonstrated significant photoprotective potential. The nanoemulsion containing only 375 ppm of algal extracts exhibited a UVA ratio of 1.25 and a critical wavelength of 379 nm, meeting the criteria for broad-spectrum protection and outperforming the commercial natural filter Helioguard®365. These results confirm the efficacy of combining red and brown algae extracts in a nanoemulsion platform to deliver sustainable, low-dose photoprotection. This work presents, for the first time, the incorporation of red and brown algae extracts into a single nanoemulsion system, representing a novel strategy to maximize the combined photoprotective potential of MAAs and fucoxanthin. Ultimately, this investigation contributes to the growing field of marine-derived sunscreens and supports the advancement of “blue beauty” innovations aligned with eco-conscious formulation principles.

CosmeticsVol. 12(3)
Universidad Nacional de Colombia (CO)
Universidad Nacional de Colombia, Ministry of Environment and Sustainable Development
Openalex Percentile: Top 6%
Bee Products Chemical Analysis
5.02
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