Analysis of Sandbar–Trough Bed Level Changes Under Regular Wave Conditions—A Case Study of Ten-Mile Silver Beach, Hailing Island, China

Understanding the evolution of the sandbar–trough system under regular wave conditions is essential for revealing the dynamic responses of coastal morphology in non-extreme environments and provides a scientific basis for long-term beach stability assessments and coastal erosion management. This study conducted a three-day field observation on Ten-Mile Silver Beach, Hailing Island, China, to investigate the coupling relationships between hydrodynamic factors and bed elevation changes during the morphological evolution of the sandbar–trough system. The results indicate that gravity wave (>0.04 Hz) energy is a key driver of bed elevation changes. During the erosion phase, gravity wave energy increases, and the peak wave energy frequency shifts toward lower frequencies, accompanied by a contraction of low-frequency energy and an expansion of high-frequency energy. In contrast, the accretion phase exhibits the opposite pattern. As the sandbar–trough system developed, the explanatory power of hydrodynamic factors on bed elevation decreased by 41% in the trough region and increased by 3.7% in the sandbar region, indicating a spatially differentiated pattern characterized by weakened forcing in the trough and enhanced response over the sandbar. During the geomorphic adjustment process, the trough area exhibited increased sensitivity, with gravity wave energy, near-infragravity wave (0.01–0.04 Hz) energy, far-infragravity wave (0.004–0.01 Hz) energy, mean wave height, and significant wave steepness reversing their influence directions on bed elevation. In contrast, the sandbar area maintained a more stable hydrodynamic control mechanism, with only the influence pattern of significant wave steepness undergoing a shift. This study enhances the understanding of geomorphology–hydrodynamics coupling within nearshore sandbar–trough systems and provides theoretical insights and technical support for monitoring and evaluating coastal erosion and accretion processes under normal wave conditions.

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Publication Details

Journal
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Published
2025-05-14
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13050953
Citations
1
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
1.67

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article

Analysis of Sandbar–Trough Bed Level Changes Under Regular Wave Conditions—A Case Study of Ten-Mile Silver Beach, Hailing Island, China

Tao Chen, Xiaodong Bian, Chunhua Zeng, Daoheng Zhu et al.
1 citations
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
1.67
article

Analysis of Sandbar–Trough Bed Level Changes Under Regular Wave Conditions—A Case Study of Ten-Mile Silver Beach, Hailing Island, China

Tao Chen, Xiaodong Bian, Chunhua Zeng, Daoheng Zhu, Zhiqiang Li, Yan Sun
article en
1 citations

Abstract

Understanding the evolution of the sandbar–trough system under regular wave conditions is essential for revealing the dynamic responses of coastal morphology in non-extreme environments and provides a scientific basis for long-term beach stability assessments and coastal erosion management. This study conducted a three-day field observation on Ten-Mile Silver Beach, Hailing Island, China, to investigate the coupling relationships between hydrodynamic factors and bed elevation changes during the morphological evolution of the sandbar–trough system. The results indicate that gravity wave (>0.04 Hz) energy is a key driver of bed elevation changes. During the erosion phase, gravity wave energy increases, and the peak wave energy frequency shifts toward lower frequencies, accompanied by a contraction of low-frequency energy and an expansion of high-frequency energy. In contrast, the accretion phase exhibits the opposite pattern. As the sandbar–trough system developed, the explanatory power of hydrodynamic factors on bed elevation decreased by 41% in the trough region and increased by 3.7% in the sandbar region, indicating a spatially differentiated pattern characterized by weakened forcing in the trough and enhanced response over the sandbar. During the geomorphic adjustment process, the trough area exhibited increased sensitivity, with gravity wave energy, near-infragravity wave (0.01–0.04 Hz) energy, far-infragravity wave (0.004–0.01 Hz) energy, mean wave height, and significant wave steepness reversing their influence directions on bed elevation. In contrast, the sandbar area maintained a more stable hydrodynamic control mechanism, with only the influence pattern of significant wave steepness undergoing a shift. This study enhances the understanding of geomorphology–hydrodynamics coupling within nearshore sandbar–trough systems and provides theoretical insights and technical support for monitoring and evaluating coastal erosion and accretion processes under normal wave conditions.

Journal of Marine Science and EngineeringVol. 13(5)
Guangdong Ocean University (CN)
National Natural Science Foundation of China, Basic and Applied Basic Research Foundation of Guangdong Province
Openalex Percentile: Top 19%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
1.67
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