Exploration of the Manufacturing Process and Selection Method of Natural Dyes in Eco-print: Ethnoscience Implications in Chemistry Learning

Students' lack of understanding and ability to conceptualize chemistry material in real life requires an effort to integrate chemistry learning with cultural values or local wisdom. One such effort is the process of making eco-prints. This research aims to uncover the ethnoscience aspects (chemistry) involved in producing and selecting eco-print natural colors that can be used in chemistry learning. This research focuses on the chief and his four crews or core employees of the Batik Craftsmen Community "Hamparan Rintik," which is actively involved in producing and marketing various batik in Malang City. This research utilizes a qualitative descriptive approach with ethnographic methods. Data sources were gathered through observation, interviews, and documentation. Data analysis was conducted using triangulation of data sources and the NVIVO 12 software. The results revealed important aspects of making eco-prints, including mordanting, coloring, and fixation. The steaming technique is commonly used in eco-printing. Moreover, the natural dyes frequently used in eco-prints are Indigofera leaves for blue, tingi bark for brown, and tegeran wood for yellow. The eco-print motifs often utilize natural materials such as red teak leaves, lanang leaves, castor leaves, genitri leaves, and African wood leaves. This research has implications for learning chemistry, including the concepts of solution-making, chemical reactions and structures, acid-base reactions, thermochemistry (heat transfer), and the nature of hygroscopic compounds.