Phytochemical studies of plant extracts enclosed in chitosan microparticles and the effect of phytoformulations on skin condition

• Plant extracts were encapsulated in chitosan microparticles for skin applications. • Encapsulation improved extract stability and controlled their release. • Phytoformulations increased skin hydration without irritation or barrier damage. • Creams with microparticles provided better long-term hydration effects. The cosmetic industry constantly competes in search of new and exotic raw materials, often forgetting the strength in the action of well-known and tested for many years. The main aim of this study was to formulate dermatological preparations containing plant extracts-loaded microparticles and to investigate the effects of their topical application on skin conditions. Extracts were prepared using the Soxhlet apparatus with water and ethanol as solvents with the following common Polish herbs: Viola tricolor, Veronica officinalis, Glechoma hederacea, Plantago lanceolata ; flowers: Achillea millefolium, Sambucus nigra, Tilia cordata ; rhizome: Potentilla erecta . They were characterised by the content of polyphenols, flavonoids and antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC, FRAP and DPPH RSA). Subsequently, extracts were enclosed in chitosan microparticles with studied loading capacity and in vitro release profile. The highest level of TPC, TFC and antioxidant activity was noted in aqueous extract from Sambucus nigra . Biophysical skin parameters were instrumentally assessed after application to the probands skin of obtained herbal creams and hydrogels. Preliminary studies of the application of phytoformulations revealed that the skin was not irritated, and the skin’s barrier permeability was maintained. Moreover, we observed a significant increase in skin hydration. Better short-term hydration properties showed cream containing microparticles with a loaded extract from Glechoma hederacea + Plantago lanceolata + Achillea millefolium + Tilia cordata + Potentilla erecta and hydrogel with free extracts from Sambucus nigra and Viola tricolor + Veronica officinalis. Therefore, prepared herbal dermatological preparations are suitable for skin conditioning.