Towards sustainable cosmetic Ingredients: A Simplified in silico approach for selecting Innovative natural mixtures as solvents in biomass extraction

• Smart selection strategy allow simple design for cosmetics MINAC. • A user-friendly workflow for selective MINAC based on COSMO RS is provided. • Experimental data validated the new σ-screening approach. • σ-screening was more relevant than activity coefficient in this strategy. • σ-screening will contribute to in silico pre-screening dissemination. The cosmetics industry is under growing pressure to adopt sustainable and efficient methods for biomass extraction. Among emerging solutions, mixtures of natural compounds (MINAC) have recently been recognized as promising, eco-friendly alternatives. To support their development, a Smart Selection strategy has been introduced to guide the design of MINAC systems, ensuring compliance with cosmetic regulations and formulation constraints. Despite this, the experimental screening of suitable formulations remains time-consuming and resource-intensive. To streamline this process, the Conductor-like Screening Model for Real Solvents (COSMO-RS) was applied to further refine a pre-selected library of cosmetics-compatible solvents. This refinement was guided by the nature of the key target compounds to be extracted from the selected biomass. A user-oriented screening methodology is proposed and illustrated through a case study focused on the extraction of fatty acids and non-polar pigments from Spirulina. Within this framework, σ-surfaces, σ-profiles, and σ-potentials were employed to identify solvent mixtures most compatible with the filtered raw materials. This step enabled the construction of a concise solvent library tailored to the target components. Solid–liquid equilibrium (SLE) calculations were then performed to determine the eutectic composition of each preselected MINAC. Four eutectic systems based on caprylic acid were identified as particularly relevant, enabling the a priori selective extraction of saturated fatty acids (SFA), combinations of SFA and polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA), or both pigments and PUFA. This method was benchmarked against the conventional activity coefficient approach, commonly regarded as the gold standard. While both in silico -based methods showed overall consistency, the applied filter-based strategy offered practical advantages in terms of simplicity and applicability within the Smart Selection framework.

Authors

Institutions

Publication Details

Journal
Separation and Purification Technology
Published
2025-05-02
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.seppur.2025.133343
Primary Topic
Biochemical and biochemical processes
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00
Controls
|||
ALL TIME
JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OCT
article

Towards sustainable cosmetic Ingredients: A Simplified in silico approach for selecting Innovative natural mixtures as solvents in biomass extraction

Alia Chevalley, Johan Jacquemin, Mervé Yagmur, Bénédicte Claude-Montigny et al.
1 links
Separation and Purification Technology
Biochemical and biochemical processes
article

Towards sustainable cosmetic Ingredients: A Simplified in silico approach for selecting Innovative natural mixtures as solvents in biomass extraction

Alia Chevalley, Johan Jacquemin, Mervé Yagmur, Bénédicte Claude-Montigny, Isabelle Théry-Koné, Carine Maaliki, Leslie Boudesocque‐Delaye
article en

Abstract

• Smart selection strategy allow simple design for cosmetics MINAC. • A user-friendly workflow for selective MINAC based on COSMO RS is provided. • Experimental data validated the new σ-screening approach. • σ-screening was more relevant than activity coefficient in this strategy. • σ-screening will contribute to in silico pre-screening dissemination. The cosmetics industry is under growing pressure to adopt sustainable and efficient methods for biomass extraction. Among emerging solutions, mixtures of natural compounds (MINAC) have recently been recognized as promising, eco-friendly alternatives. To support their development, a Smart Selection strategy has been introduced to guide the design of MINAC systems, ensuring compliance with cosmetic regulations and formulation constraints. Despite this, the experimental screening of suitable formulations remains time-consuming and resource-intensive. To streamline this process, the Conductor-like Screening Model for Real Solvents (COSMO-RS) was applied to further refine a pre-selected library of cosmetics-compatible solvents. This refinement was guided by the nature of the key target compounds to be extracted from the selected biomass. A user-oriented screening methodology is proposed and illustrated through a case study focused on the extraction of fatty acids and non-polar pigments from Spirulina. Within this framework, σ-surfaces, σ-profiles, and σ-potentials were employed to identify solvent mixtures most compatible with the filtered raw materials. This step enabled the construction of a concise solvent library tailored to the target components. Solid–liquid equilibrium (SLE) calculations were then performed to determine the eutectic composition of each preselected MINAC. Four eutectic systems based on caprylic acid were identified as particularly relevant, enabling the a priori selective extraction of saturated fatty acids (SFA), combinations of SFA and polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA), or both pigments and PUFA. This method was benchmarked against the conventional activity coefficient approach, commonly regarded as the gold standard. While both in silico -based methods showed overall consistency, the applied filter-based strategy offered practical advantages in terms of simplicity and applicability within the Smart Selection framework.

Separation and Purification TechnologyVol. 371
Université de Tours (FR), Université Mohammed VI Polytechnique (MA), Laboratoire de Mathématiques et Physique Théorique (FR)
Responsible consumption and production
Openalex Percentile: Top 89%
Biochemical and biochemical processes
AI Navigator

Ask Laika to Summarize, Analyze, and Connect papers live on the map.

Summarize Papers & Methodologies

Extract key findings, datasets, and comparative methods across publications.

Benchmark Rankings & Visual Analytics

Rank top research institutions, authors, funders, topics, and journals by Field-Weighted Citation Impact (FWCI) and paper volume with instant charts.

Connect Distant Disciplines

Bridge topological clusters on the map to find hidden collaborative intersections.