Lower Silesian Costume: Transposition of Prewar Heritage Within Folkloristic and Regional Frameworks

Viewed as “correct and authentic” by some, yet criticized as ugly and inconsistent with the Polish imaginary of folk culture by others, the Lower Silesian costume is a simplified and unified version of the pre-World War II regional dress of the Karkonosze Mountains. It was popularized in Lower Silesia after the war to fill the folkloric void caused by the almost complete population exchange. Currently, it is used by professional and amateur folk groups. I analyze the phenomenon of the Lower Silesian costume through its cultural biography. As presented in this article, it is divided into three chronological parts: before World War II, when the costume was worn by the German inhabitants of the region and local enthusiasts in a spirit of romanticized nationalism; after the war, when it was (re)introduced as an element of institutionally created folklore and propaganda Polishness of the region; and today, when the costume is perceived as full of contradictions. I conclude the analysis by proposing the concept of cultural transposition, which is the relocation of cultural elements or phenomena into new socio-political frameworks, leading to their (not necessarily harmonious) mutation.