Evaluation of the chemical, antioxidant, and antimicrobial profile of Humulus lupulus L. var. teamaker extract for use as a cosmetic ingredient

Humulus lupulus L. extracts contained a wide range of molecules, including polyphenols, α-acids, β-acids, and hydrocarbons, which played a fundamental role in the plant’s medicinal properties. Although hops were widely used in the brewing industry, recent research revealed additional benefits, notably their remarkable antibacterial, antifungal, and antioxidant properties, which held promising potential for cosmetic applications. While some interesting compounds had been described in the literature, the complete phytochemical profile as well as its biological and pharmacological properties remained largely unexplored. The teamaker variety remains relatively understudied; however, its composition of soft resins makes it promising for various applications.In this context, the present study aimed to assess the chemical composition, antioxidant properties, and antimicrobial activity of the teamaker variety cultivated in Brazil, with a focus on its potential application as a cosmetic ingredient. The chemical profile of the ethanolic extract of this variety, analyzed by GC/MS and HPLC-UV, revealed a low concentration (0.8%) of α-acids (humulones) and a high concentration (12.50%) of β-acids (lupulones), in addition to the presence of mono- and sesquiterpenes, polyunsaturated fatty acids, esters, phenols, and other compounds. The antioxidant evaluation, performed using DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP assays, demonstrated a high antioxidant potential in the hop extract, which could be attributed to the presence of polyphenols such as xanthohumol, quercetin and catechin. Moreover, the observed growth inhibition in Gram-positive strains suggested its potential as a preservative in formulations. Based on these findings, the teamaker hop variety exhibits promising potential as a versatile cosmetic raw material with a range of functional applications.