Momentum fluxes in wind-forced breaking waves

We investigate the momentum fluxes between a turbulent air boundary layer and a growing–breaking wave field by solving the air–water two-phase Navier–Stokes equations through direct numerical simulations. A fully developed turbulent airflow drives the growth of a narrowbanded wave field, whose amplitude increases until reaching breaking conditions. The breaking events result in a loss of wave energy, transferred to the water column, followed by renewed growth under wind forcing. We revisit the momentum flux analysis in a high-wind-speed regime, characterized by the ratio of the friction velocity to wave speed $u_\ast /c$ in the range $[0.3\,{-}\,0.9]$ , through the lens of growing–breaking cycles. The total momentum flux across the interface is dominated by pressure, which increases with $u_\ast /c$ during growth and reduces sharply during breaking. Drag reduction during breaking is linked to airflow separation, a sudden acceleration of the flow, an upward shift of the mean streamwise velocity profile and a reduction in Reynolds shear stress. We characterize the reduction of pressure stress and flow acceleration through an aerodynamic drag coefficient by splitting the analysis between growing and breaking stages, treating them as separate subprocesses. While drag increases with $u_\ast /c$ during growth, it decreases during breaking. Averaging over both stages leads to a saturation of the drag coefficient at high $u_\ast /c$ , comparable to what is observed at high wind speeds in laboratory and field conditions. Our analysis suggests that this saturation is controlled by breaking dynamics.

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Publication Details

Journal
Journal of Fluid Mechanics
Published
2025-04-16
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2025.77
Citations
3
Primary Topic
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
5.38

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article

Momentum fluxes in wind-forced breaking waves

Jiarong Wu, Luc Deike, Nicolò Scapin, Bertrand Chapron et al.
3 citations
Journal of Fluid Mechanics
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
5.38
article

Momentum fluxes in wind-forced breaking waves

Jiarong Wu, Luc Deike, Nicolò Scapin, Bertrand Chapron, J. Thomas Farrar, Stéphane Popinet
article en
3 citations

Abstract

We investigate the momentum fluxes between a turbulent air boundary layer and a growing–breaking wave field by solving the air–water two-phase Navier–Stokes equations through direct numerical simulations. A fully developed turbulent airflow drives the growth of a narrowbanded wave field, whose amplitude increases until reaching breaking conditions. The breaking events result in a loss of wave energy, transferred to the water column, followed by renewed growth under wind forcing. We revisit the momentum flux analysis in a high-wind-speed regime, characterized by the ratio of the friction velocity to wave speed $u_\ast /c$ in the range $[0.3\,{-}\,0.9]$ , through the lens of growing–breaking cycles. The total momentum flux across the interface is dominated by pressure, which increases with $u_\ast /c$ during growth and reduces sharply during breaking. Drag reduction during breaking is linked to airflow separation, a sudden acceleration of the flow, an upward shift of the mean streamwise velocity profile and a reduction in Reynolds shear stress. We characterize the reduction of pressure stress and flow acceleration through an aerodynamic drag coefficient by splitting the analysis between growing and breaking stages, treating them as separate subprocesses. While drag increases with $u_\ast /c$ during growth, it decreases during breaking. Averaging over both stages leads to a saturation of the drag coefficient at high $u_\ast /c$ , comparable to what is observed at high wind speeds in laboratory and field conditions. Our analysis suggests that this saturation is controlled by breaking dynamics.

Journal of Fluid MechanicsVol. 1009
Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (FR), Ifremer (FR), Université de Bretagne Occidentale (FR), Princeton University (US), Courant Institute of Mathematical Sciences (US), Sorbonne Université (FR), Institut Jean Le Rond d'Alembert (FR), Laboratory for Ocean Physics and Satellite Remote Sensing (FR), Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (FR), New York University (US), Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (US)
National Science Foundation, National Aeronautics and Space Administration, Nuclear Safety and Security Commission
Openalex Percentile: Top 5%
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
5.38
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