Hanfu, Hanbok and Kimono Modernised: On Fashion Evolution in East Asia

The article takes a look at the fashion and life style in big Chinese cities, such as Chongqing, through the eyes of a fashion design teacher. The author describes the everyday life of the Chinese metropolis, where tradition meets modernity. A special place in this cityscape is reserved to academic students, who combine practicality with fashion – from all types of crocks to college fashion sets, inspired by prestigious Western academic centres. The youth fashion is dominated by contrasts: cute-version kawaii style and Gothic or punk inspirations. An important Chinese trend is guochao (the Chinese wave), the movement combining traditional cultural values with modern design. One example are hanfu – traditional clothing of the Han dynasty making its return in a modernised form – or cheongsam (qipao), reinterpreted by designers worldwide. Guochao symbolises the rebirth of Chinese identity and refers to historic and political events, such as cultural revolution. At the same time, it remains open to global inspirations, as much as the Korean hallyu movement, which affects the Chinese youth, popularising k-pop and other elements of the South Korean culture. The article demonstrates a dynamic dialogue between East and West, in which fashion becomes a means of expression for contemporary identities. Keywords: contemporary fashion in China, fashion in Japan, fashion in South Korea, guochao, East Asian fashion designers