Kimonos, Ponchos and Blue Jeans: The Politics of Clothing in Alberto Fujimori’s Performative Populism

This article explores the role of clothing in populism through an analysis of Alberto Fujimori, Peru’s one-time autocrat (1990–2000). Drawing on the discursive-performative approach to populism and novel primary sources, this article makes the process-traced argument fashion may be essential to the performance of populism since, from the perspective of populist leaders, clothing is capable of overcoming some limitations of discourse. Despite several rhetorical shortcomings, clothing allowed Fujimori to perform ‘the popular’. Through kimonos, Fujimori differentiated himself from Peru’s White elite, through ponchos he built identification with indigenous Peruvians and through blue jeans he embodied a hands-on governing style. Clothing allowed Fujimori to build charismatic authority without rhetorical skill, transmitted nuanced messages alongside discourse and convinced many Peruvians of the authenticity of his populist project. This analysis of Fujimori highlights the oft-neglected importance of clothing in politics while providing a methodological blueprint for scholars interested in addressing this important gap.