From bio-based to fossil-based to bio-based

Fur as a status-affirming adornment has been historically significant in fashion. There are three main categories of fur and fur-like materials: animal-based, synthetic, and next-generation (next-gen) fur. Animal-based fur is controversial and associated with ethical and environmental concerns, including animal welfare and the use of toxic chemicals. Synthetic fur is typically made from fossil-fuel-derived polymers like acrylic, which successfully mimic the properties of animal hairs in fur, such as aesthetics and touch. These non-renewable, fossil carbon-based fur replacements do not biodegrade, contributing to the plastics crisis in landfills and through fibre shedding. Next-gen furs made from bio-based, regeneratively sourced materials could mitigate this problem because the shed fibres would biodegrade naturally. This paper reports on preliminary findings from an ongoing study investigating the potential benefits of using hemp fibre as the hair in next-gen fur. Extensive material experiments demonstrate that hemp fibre can be used to produce a visually pleasing, appealing-to-touch, fur-like surface. Further research will investigate the base materials of next-gen furs, as well as the scalability of these new materials.