Characterization, antioxidant capacity, and application of a microcapsule with essential oil from Campomanesia adamantium fruit residue in a cosmetic product

ABSTRACT Essential oils (EOs) are continuously explored from new sources, while encapsulation emerges as a promising strategy for their application in different fields. The aim of this study was to characterize microcapsules (MCs) containing EOs extracted from Campomanesia adamantium fruit residues, evaluate their antioxidant capacity and incorporate them into a cosmetic formulation. Two microcapsules (MCs) containing EO were prepared by complex coacervation with gelatin (G) and gum arabic (GA) in two ratios: MC1 (G:GA 1:2) and MC2 (G:GA 2:1). The chemical composition, EO retention, encapsulation efficiency, morphological features, solubility, hygroscopicity, thermal properties, infrared spectroscopy, and antioxidant capacity were analyzed. EO and MC were incorporated into an anti-aging cosmetic formulation, and the organoleptic characteristics, stability (4, 25, and 45 °C), spreadability, and microbiological quality of the cream were evaluated for 90 days. MC1 exhibited superior properties due to the greater proportion of gum arabic, which provided thermal protection, better water solubility, lower hygroscopicity, and a less porous surface. The MC1 and MC2 antioxidant capacities were similar to those of free EO, consistent with the results of the retention rates and encapsulation efficiency. Infrared spectroscopy confirmed the encapsulation, maintaining the main constituents of EO (α-pinene, limonene, β-ocimene, and β-caryophyllene). Incorporating the MCs and EO into a cosmetic cream resulted in the formation of a stable emulsion with good spreadability and consistent organoleptic properties over 90 days, suggesting that C. adamantium residue can be used in cosmetic formulations.