Extreme statistics of wave forces on a horizontal cylinder behind a shoal

We report laboratory experiments of long-crested irregular water surface waves propagating over a shoal, with attention to the region over the down-slope behind the shoal. We measure the surface elevation field, the horizontal velocity field in the water, and the resulting forces on a horizontal submerged cylinder placed over the down-slope of the shoal. In addition, we calculate the horizontal acceleration field. From this, we find that the presence of the shoal can modify the wave field such that the resulting forces on the submerged cylinder can be enhanced with thicker extreme tails and increased values of skewness and kurtosis depending on the location of the cylinder. The spatial dependence of the statistics of forces is different from the spatial dependence of the statistics of horizontal velocity, horizontal acceleration and surface elevation.