Utilising finite element analysis to evaluate gore design in bras

In the early stage of bra pattern making, the gore size is an important design feature to provide different effects such as enhancing the shape of the breasts and the depth of the cleavage, as well as affecting the fitting issue. However, the shaping effects in controlling the breast shape of the gore size have not been investigated in previous studies. This study proposes a finite element method (FEM) to simulate the effect of gore dimensions on breast shape in a wired-bra. A biomechanical model based on accurate geometries and mechanical properties of humans is first built. Then, the sub-model of a bra with different gore design scenarios interacts with the sub-model of the human body. A factorial analysis has been conducted that the effects of lengths of the upper gore and lower gore on the breast geometry are systematically investigated based on the numerical contact models. The length of the upper gore positively contributes to the gathering of the breasts and a deeper cleavage. While the length of the lower gore has a negative relationship with the lifting effect of the breasts and the position of the bra underwire. Reduced lower gore length would lead to a poor fit of the underwire against the breast roots. The method proposed in this paper can be used by bra designers to predict the breast deformation, and thus reducing the time required for the designing of pattern making at the early stages.