Optimizing Vitamin B12 Release from Cosmetic Formulations: The Synergy between Matrix Type and Active Ingredient Concentration

Background/Introduction: Maximizing cosmetic product efficiency requires the optimization of active ingredient concentrations and their release rate. Vitamin B12 has recently gained attention as a cosmetic ingredient due to its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, soothing, and hydrating properties. By adjusting vitamin B12 concentrations and employing advanced formulation techniques, appropriate therapeutic and aesthetic outcomes can be achieved. Objective: This research aimed to evaluate the effect of formulation matrix and vitamin B12 concentration on its release from cosmetic products. The physicochemical properties of oil-in-water emulsions and gels with 0.025, 0.050, and 0.100 wt.% of the active ingredient were compared. Methods: The release of vitamin B12 from gel and oil-in-water emulsions was investigated in phosphate buffer (pH 5.8) at 32°C for 4 hours using UV-Vis spectrophotometry. Viscosity, pH, density, microbiological purity, and stability of formulations were determined. Results and Discussion: Both gel and emulsion formulations were stable and exhibited consistent physicochemical properties. Emulsions had higher viscosity and lower density compared to gels, influencing the release of vitamin B12. Gels consistently released more vitamin B12 than emulsions across all concentrations: 0.025% (0.24 mg vs. 0.14 mg), 0.05% (0.23 mg vs. 0.20 mg), and 0.1% (0.59 mg vs. 0.24 mg). Conclusion: Gel formulations were more effective than emulsions in releasing vitamin B12, particularly at higher concentrations. The increased release from gels was primarily due to their lower viscosity and the hydrophilic nature of the active ingredients. Further studies are needed to investigate skin permeability and confirm the efficiency of these formulations in cosmetic applications.