A New Expression for a Goda Type Breaker Index Formula in Spectral Wave Models

The breaker index in contemporary spectral wave models is a vital parameter in studying depth-induced wave breaking, which is an important mechanism in coastal engineering. In the previous study, the authors modified a Goda type breaker index formula and parameterized it in a spectral wave model. Although this parameterization model can accurately simulate nearshore wave height variations under various laboratory and field conditions, the computation of deep-water wave conditions in the formula necessitates reverse calculation based on the incident waves, thus limiting its applicability. To solve this problem, a new expression for this Goda type breaker index is rederived, enabling its applicability to simulate breaking waves caused by variable wave conditions on open boundaries and wind field inputs in the whole computational region. The model’s capability to simulate wave heights in laboratory and field experiments is comparable to that of the original formula.

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Publication Details

Journal
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Published
2025-02-07
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13020313
Citations
3
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
5.01

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article

A New Expression for a Goda Type Breaker Index Formula in Spectral Wave Models

Qinghe Zhang, Zereng Chen, Yang Nie
3 citations
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
5.01
article

A New Expression for a Goda Type Breaker Index Formula in Spectral Wave Models

Qinghe Zhang, Zereng Chen, Yang Nie
article en
3 citations

Abstract

The breaker index in contemporary spectral wave models is a vital parameter in studying depth-induced wave breaking, which is an important mechanism in coastal engineering. In the previous study, the authors modified a Goda type breaker index formula and parameterized it in a spectral wave model. Although this parameterization model can accurately simulate nearshore wave height variations under various laboratory and field conditions, the computation of deep-water wave conditions in the formula necessitates reverse calculation based on the incident waves, thus limiting its applicability. To solve this problem, a new expression for this Goda type breaker index is rederived, enabling its applicability to simulate breaking waves caused by variable wave conditions on open boundaries and wind field inputs in the whole computational region. The model’s capability to simulate wave heights in laboratory and field experiments is comparable to that of the original formula.

Journal of Marine Science and EngineeringVol. 13(2)
Tianjin University (CN), Hohai University (CN)
National Natural Science Foundation of China
Life below water
Openalex Percentile: Top 7%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
5.01
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A New Expression for a Goda Type Breaker Index Formula in Spectral Wave Models — Qinghe Zhang, Zereng Chen, et al. · Journal of Marine Science and Engineering (2025) | TGRS Research Map | TGRS