Cannabis in cosmetics: regulatory and scientific insights into hemp seed extracts for skincare

Background: This study explores the historical, medical, and scientific aspects of cannabis/hemp, emphasizing cannabinoids and traditional skincare applications. It examines hemp seed oil’s role in skin health and cosmetics, alongside Korea’s regulatory response to global cannabis trends, and assesses legalities in the international cosmetic market from a skin health perspective. Objective: The study aims to highlight the global use of cannabis-derived extracts as active pharmaceutical ingredients in cosmetics. It addresses the ambiguity in Korean regulations on cannabinoids, such as cannabidiol (CBD) and tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), and their impact on legal compliance and industry stability. The study seeks to provide scientifically regulated, stable cosmetic ingredients by analyzing cannabis constituents. Methods: Traditional methods were used to extract hemp seed oil, ensuring that sixteen cannabinoids, particularly THC, remained within safe limits as analyzed by high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection under the PK-16 (Perkin Elmer protocol). The safety and efficacy of these extracts in cosmetics were evaluated. Results: Husk-removed hemp seed extracts were analyzed under Korean regulations for detectable cannabinoids. Extracts with more than 95% husk removal showed safe levels of THC and CBD. However, 70% husk removal yielded varying THC contents depending on extraction methods, temperature, and hemp variety. Both imported and domestically produced hemp oils were evaluated, emphasizing the importance of analytical technology and management at the good agricultural practices and good manufacturing practices levels in cosmetic applications. Conclusion: This research underscores the need for legal and scientific consideration in hemp cosmetics. While cannabinoids offer potential benefits, compliance with regulations and transparent ingredient disclosure are crucial. Global regulatory perspectives on cannabinoids affect competitiveness. Korea’s focus on hemp diversity lacks medical competitiveness and intellectual property protection but highlights cosmetic applications. Traditional hemp seed handling and PK-16 analysis methods are effective in skincare applications.