Assessment of Beach Slope and Sediment Grain Size Anywhere in the World: Review of Existing Formulae, Integration of Tidal Influence, and Perspectives from Satellite Observations

Grain size and beach slope are critical factors in coastal science and management. However, it is difficult to have information on their distribution everywhere in the world, as most of the coast has never been documented. For many applications, it is essential to have at least a rough estimate when local field measurements are not available. Here, we review the existing prediction formulas relating beach slope to grain size and wave conditions, using publicly available global datasets and comparing them with a benchmark dataset of ground measurements from different authors worldwide. Uncertainties arise from the input parameters, in particular coastal waves, a key parameter of all formulae, but also from empirical coefficients that are undocumented or inaccessible with the global dataset. Despite the recognized importance of tides, they are often overlooked in formulae relating beach slope to sediment grain size. We therefore present an improved formulation that incorporates tidal effects. Although satellites offer a promising alternative to predictive formulae for direct estimation of beach slope and grain size, the current accuracy and methodologies of satellite data are insufficient for global applications. Continued advances in satellite missions, including higher resolution and revisit frequency, as well as new sensors, are essential to improve predictive capabilities and facilitate wider implementation.

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Publication Details

Journal
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Published
2024-12-31
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13010058
Citations
3
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
1.55

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article

Assessment of Beach Slope and Sediment Grain Size Anywhere in the World: Review of Existing Formulae, Integration of Tidal Influence, and Perspectives from Satellite Observations

Bruno Castelle, Vincent Regard, A. Arias, Rafaël Almar et al.
3 citations
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
1.55
article

Assessment of Beach Slope and Sediment Grain Size Anywhere in the World: Review of Existing Formulae, Integration of Tidal Influence, and Perspectives from Satellite Observations

Bruno Castelle, Vincent Regard, A. Arias, Rafaël Almar, Thierry Garlan, Erwin W. J. Bergsma
article en
3 citations

Abstract

Grain size and beach slope are critical factors in coastal science and management. However, it is difficult to have information on their distribution everywhere in the world, as most of the coast has never been documented. For many applications, it is essential to have at least a rough estimate when local field measurements are not available. Here, we review the existing prediction formulas relating beach slope to grain size and wave conditions, using publicly available global datasets and comparing them with a benchmark dataset of ground measurements from different authors worldwide. Uncertainties arise from the input parameters, in particular coastal waves, a key parameter of all formulae, but also from empirical coefficients that are undocumented or inaccessible with the global dataset. Despite the recognized importance of tides, they are often overlooked in formulae relating beach slope to sediment grain size. We therefore present an improved formulation that incorporates tidal effects. Although satellites offer a promising alternative to predictive formulae for direct estimation of beach slope and grain size, the current accuracy and methodologies of satellite data are insufficient for global applications. Continued advances in satellite missions, including higher resolution and revisit frequency, as well as new sensors, are essential to improve predictive capabilities and facilitate wider implementation.

Journal of Marine Science and EngineeringVol. 13(1)
Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (FR), Université de Bordeaux (FR), Université Fédérale de Toulouse Midi-Pyrénées (FR), European Space Agency (FR), Service Hydrographique et Océanographique de la Marine (FR), Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux (FR), Laboratoire d’Études en Géophysique et Océanographie Spatiales (FR), Géosciences Environnement Toulouse (FR), Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (FR)
Agence Nationale de la Recherche
Life below water
Openalex Percentile: Top 18%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
1.55
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