Estimating Surfzone Currents with Near-Field Optical Remote Sensing

Abstract Currents transport sediment, larvae, pollutants, and people across and along the surfzone, creating a dynamic interface between the coastal ocean and shore. Previous field studies of nearshore flows primarily have relied on relatively low spatial resolution deployments of in situ sensors, but the development of remote sensing techniques using optical imagery and naturally occurring foam as a flow tracer has allowed for high spatial resolution observations (on the order of a few meters) across the surfzone. Here, algorithms optical current meter (OCM) and particle image velocimetry (PIV) are extended from previous surfzone applications and used to estimate both cross-shore and alongshore 2-, 10-, and 60-min mean surface currents in the nearshore using imagery from both oblique and nadir viewing angles. Results are compared with in situ current meters throughout the surfzone for a wide range of incident wave heights, directions, and directional spreads. Differences between remotely sensed flows and in situ current meters are smallest for nadir viewing angles, where georectification is simplified. Comparisons of 10-min mean flow estimates from a nadir viewing angle with in situ estimates of alongshore and cross-shore currents had correlations r 2 = 0.94 and 0.51 with root-mean-square differences (RMSDs) = 0.07 and 0.16 m s −1 for PIV and r 2 = 0.88 and 0.44 with RMSDs = 0.08 and 0.22 m s −1 for OCM. Differences between remotely sensed and in situ cross-shore current estimates are at least partially owing to the difference between onshore-directed mass flux on the surface and offshore-directed undertow in the mid–water column.