The application of local plants as environmentally friendly dyes on Timorese ‘Ikat’ Weaving

Abstract The traditional ‘Ikat’ weaving in East Nusa Tenggara (NTT) plays a vital role in the region’s economic development. This study investigates plants used for natural dyes, the colours they produce, and the potential for creating practical, ready-to-use dyes. Conducted in Oinlasi Village, South Central Timor, and Taekas Village, North Central Timor, data collection involved field observations and interviews with two weaving groups, each consisting of 12 participants. The research identified 20 plant species as sources of natural dyes. These plants offer dyes from their leaves, bark, roots, tubers, and fruits. Timber plants such as kesambi, teak, jackfruit, and mahogany provide dyes from their bark, while indigo, pandanus, suji, and ketapang contribute dyes from their leaves. Other plants like turmeric (rhizome) and hibiscus (flowers) also yield natural colours. Dye extraction involves three main methods: boiling, non-boiling, and fermentation, producing a range of colours including brown, yellow, red, blue, green, and black. Mordants like alum, iron sulphate, vinegar, and lime are used to fix the colours and prevent fading. Natural dyes contain compounds such as flavonoids, alkaloids, and tannins, offering potential applications in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals. However, issues like colour fading, restricted metal salts, and consistency challenges exist. Ongoing research and increased awareness can help improve the durability and variety of natural dyes, making them a sustainable and eco-friendly option in an environmentally conscious era.