Textile Properties of Native Cotton From Pachachaca Valley - Apurimac, Peru, Dyed With Buddleja Coriacea Dye

Objective: This study investigates the properties of native cotton from Pachachaca, Apurímac, Peru, dyed with Buddleja coriacea and metallic mordants, evaluating its textile properties for the textile industry. Theoretical Framework: Key concepts related to textile fibers, natural dyes like Buddleja coriacea, and the importance of metallic mordants in the dyeing process are presented, highlighting the relevance of sustainable practices in the contemporary textile industry. Method: The research analyzed textile characteristics with OFDA 2000, morphology with SEM, and the chemical composition of fibers with FT-IR spectroscopy. Dyeing treatments varying in pH were applied. Results and Discussion: FT-IR of the dye identified flavonoid bands with N-H and O-H groups. The pH of treatments: T2 (5.22), T3 (3.18), T4 (2.58). DMF: T1 (15.03 µm), T5 (13.73 µm). IC: T3 (70.33 º/mm). Luminosity (L*): T1 (94.25), T5 (51.12). Chroma (C*): T4 (58.55). SEM-EDS showed variations in carbon, nitrogen, and oxygen: T5 stood out in carbon (53.4%) and had lower oxygen (38.3%). FTIR of the dyed sample revealed key bands: 3342 cm⁻¹ (N-H, O-H), 2917 cm⁻¹, and 2840 cm⁻¹ (C-H). Treatments and mordants enhance the sustainability and quality of eco-friendly cotton. Research Implications: The findings suggest a high potential of native cotton for use in sustainable textile production, promoting practices that value biodiversity and cultural conservation. Originality/Value: This study evidences the unique properties of Peruvian cotton, revitalizing traditional techniques and creating innovative and sustainable textile products.