Research on Waterless Cosmetics in the Form of Scrub Bars Based on Natural Exfoliants

Scrub bars are an innovative alternative to traditional liquid, semi-liquid, and oily body scrubs. Through the elimination of water from their formulas, they align with the current ‘waterless’ trend in the cosmetics market. The aims of this study were to create anhydrous formulations for body scrub bars and to assess their physical, chemical, and sensory characteristics depending on the type of exfoliant added. A total of five solid body scrub formulations were developed using different natural exfoliants: sugar, microcrystalline cellulose, ground coffee beans, corn granules, and sodium chloride. The shape and dimensions of the exfoliant particles were characterized by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The formulations were subjected to texturometric tests. The final products underwent color assessment along with a consumer evaluation of sensory appeal. The test results showed that the body scrubs exhibiting the highest hardness and adhesive force were those containing exfoliants with small particles, either angular (sodium chloride) or subrounded (Coffea arabica seed powder) in shape. Conversely, the lowest hardness was determined for the product formulated with the addition of an exfoliant with well-rounded particles (microcrystalline cellulose). Among the exfoliants tested, microcrystalline cellulose proved to be the most suitable for body scrubs, demonstrating superior texture and exfoliating effectiveness. However, cosmetics containing ground coffee received the highest esthetic ratings. Coffee gave the product a natural color and an appealing scent, as judged by the testers.