Modelling wind-induced changes to overturning wave shape

Depth-limited overturning wave shape affects water turbulence and sediment suspension. Experiments have shown that wind affects shoaling and overturning wave shape, with uncertain mechanism. Here, we study wind effects (given by the wind Reynolds number) on solitary wave shoaling and overturning with the two-phase direct numerical simulations model Basilisk run in two dimensions on steep bathymetry for fixed wave Reynolds number and Bond number. For all wind, the propagating solitary wave sheds a two-dimensional turbulent air wake and has nearly uniform speed with minimal wave energy changes over the rapidly varying bathymetry. Wave-face slope is influenced by wind, and shoaling wave shape changes are consistent with previous studies. As overturning jet impacts, wind-dependent differences in overturn shape are quantified. The non-dimensional breakpoint location and overturn area have similar wind dependence as previous experience, whereas the overturn aspect ratio has opposite wind dependence. During shoaling, the surface viscous stresses are negligible relative to pressure. Surface tension effects are also small but grow rapidly near overturning. In a wave frame of reference, surface pressure is low in the lee and contributes 2–5 % to the velocity potential rate of change in the surface dynamic boundary condition, which, integrated over time, changes the wave shape. Reasons why the overturn aspect ratio is different than in experiment and why a stronger simulated wind is required are explored. The dramatic wind effects on overturning jet area, and thus to the available overturn potential energy, make concrete the implications of wind-induced changes to wave shape.

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Publication Details

Journal
Journal of Fluid Mechanics
Published
2024-11-27
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2024.1012
Citations
1
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.52
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article

Modelling wind-induced changes to overturning wave shape

Adam Fincham, Wouter Mostert, Falk Feddersen, Kentaro Hanson
1 citations
Journal of Fluid Mechanics
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
0.52
article

Modelling wind-induced changes to overturning wave shape

Adam Fincham, Wouter Mostert, Falk Feddersen, Kentaro Hanson
article en
1 citations

Abstract

Depth-limited overturning wave shape affects water turbulence and sediment suspension. Experiments have shown that wind affects shoaling and overturning wave shape, with uncertain mechanism. Here, we study wind effects (given by the wind Reynolds number) on solitary wave shoaling and overturning with the two-phase direct numerical simulations model Basilisk run in two dimensions on steep bathymetry for fixed wave Reynolds number and Bond number. For all wind, the propagating solitary wave sheds a two-dimensional turbulent air wake and has nearly uniform speed with minimal wave energy changes over the rapidly varying bathymetry. Wave-face slope is influenced by wind, and shoaling wave shape changes are consistent with previous studies. As overturning jet impacts, wind-dependent differences in overturn shape are quantified. The non-dimensional breakpoint location and overturn area have similar wind dependence as previous experience, whereas the overturn aspect ratio has opposite wind dependence. During shoaling, the surface viscous stresses are negligible relative to pressure. Surface tension effects are also small but grow rapidly near overturning. In a wave frame of reference, surface pressure is low in the lee and contributes 2–5 % to the velocity potential rate of change in the surface dynamic boundary condition, which, integrated over time, changes the wave shape. Reasons why the overturn aspect ratio is different than in experiment and why a stronger simulated wind is required are explored. The dramatic wind effects on overturning jet area, and thus to the available overturn potential energy, make concrete the implications of wind-induced changes to wave shape.

Journal of Fluid MechanicsVol. 1000
University of Southern California (US), Scripps Institution of Oceanography (US), Princeton University (US), University of Oxford (GB), Science Oxford (GB)
Affordable and clean energy
Openalex Percentile: Top 32%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
0.52
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Modelling wind-induced changes to overturning wave shape — Adam Fincham, Wouter Mostert, et al. · Journal of Fluid Mechanics (2024) | TGRS Research Map | TGRS