Japonisme, New Japonisme, and Pop Japonisme in Italian Fashion

Abstract This article examines the profound impact exerted by Japanese fashion and culture on the evolution of Italian fashion. In Italy, the assimilation of Japanese clothing and aesthetics occurred particularly during three periods: 1870s–1920s (the era of Japonisme), 1970s–1990s (New Japonisme), and the early decades of the twenty-first century (Pop Japonisme). Throughout these periods, the kimono was a significant source of inspiration for Italian designers, who progressively reinterpreted this garment with increasing creativity. With the onset of New Japonisme, the influence of avant-garde Japanese fashion also became pronounced in Italian fashion, further evolving during Pop Japonisme to include inspiration from the kawaii style. In exploring the distinctive features of Japonisme in Italian fashion, this article offers a comparison with other forms of Japonisme in Europe, particularly in France.