Numerical investigation of the refractive properties of near-horizontal rocky shore platforms and their effects on harmonic and stationary wave patterns

Near-horizontal shore platforms display highly irregular plan shapes, but little is known about the way in which these irregularities influence the significant wave height ( H s ̂ ) on the platforms and the frequency components of the nearshore wavefield. As ocean waves share akin refractive properties to light rays, it can be assumed that, similarly to optical lenses, shore platforms can separate waves according to their frequency depending on their geometry. Thus, we use a non-linear Boussinesq wave model to conduct harmonic and bispectral mode decomposition analyses to study the control of concave and convex platform edges over wind waves (WW: 0.125–0.33 Hz), swell waves (SW: 0.05–0.125 Hz) and infragravity (IG: 0.008–0.05 Hz) waves frequencies. For breaking and non-breaking waves, increasing the platform edge concavity intensified wave divergence and subsequent attenuation of SW and IG across the outer platforms, reducing H s ̂ by up to 25 %. Increasing the platform edge convexity intensified focusing and amplification of SW and WW over the outer platforms, increasing H s ̂ by up to 18 % and 55 % for breaking and non-breaking waves. In the presence of breaking, IG amplification was affected by wave divergence across the inner platform, a condition determined by a critical convex curvature threshold ( K =1.8) balancing wave focusing from refraction and defocusing from breaking. We find that convex curvature can determine the relative dominance of WW, SW and IG across platforms. Alongshore, coherent wave interactions governed IG stationary patterns defined by a node near the platform centreline and two antinodes on either side of concave edges. A node was generated at the platform centreline, and two antinodes were observed on either side of the convex edges for K >1.8, with the opposite pattern observed for K <1.8. Such patterns likely result in alongshore variations in wave-generated currents and erosion shaping rock coasts. • Concave and convex platforms can separate the wavefield's frequency components. • Platform edge convexity affects the dominance of frequency bands across platforms. • Coherent amplification affects the nodal state of alongshore stationary waves. • Shore platforms' refractive properties likely affect erosion along rock coasts.

Authors

Institutions

Publication Details

Journal
Geomorphology
Published
2024-11-03
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geomorph.2024.109491
Citations
1
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.52

Funders

Controls
|||
ALL TIME
JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OCT
article

Numerical investigation of the refractive properties of near-horizontal rocky shore platforms and their effects on harmonic and stationary wave patterns

Mark Edward Dickson, Wayne Stephenson, Raphael Krier-Mariani, Sarah Wakes
1 citations
Geomorphology
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
0.52
article

Numerical investigation of the refractive properties of near-horizontal rocky shore platforms and their effects on harmonic and stationary wave patterns

Mark Edward Dickson, Wayne Stephenson, Raphael Krier-Mariani, Sarah Wakes
article en
1 citations

Abstract

Near-horizontal shore platforms display highly irregular plan shapes, but little is known about the way in which these irregularities influence the significant wave height ( H s ̂ ) on the platforms and the frequency components of the nearshore wavefield. As ocean waves share akin refractive properties to light rays, it can be assumed that, similarly to optical lenses, shore platforms can separate waves according to their frequency depending on their geometry. Thus, we use a non-linear Boussinesq wave model to conduct harmonic and bispectral mode decomposition analyses to study the control of concave and convex platform edges over wind waves (WW: 0.125–0.33 Hz), swell waves (SW: 0.05–0.125 Hz) and infragravity (IG: 0.008–0.05 Hz) waves frequencies. For breaking and non-breaking waves, increasing the platform edge concavity intensified wave divergence and subsequent attenuation of SW and IG across the outer platforms, reducing H s ̂ by up to 25 %. Increasing the platform edge convexity intensified focusing and amplification of SW and WW over the outer platforms, increasing H s ̂ by up to 18 % and 55 % for breaking and non-breaking waves. In the presence of breaking, IG amplification was affected by wave divergence across the inner platform, a condition determined by a critical convex curvature threshold ( K =1.8) balancing wave focusing from refraction and defocusing from breaking. We find that convex curvature can determine the relative dominance of WW, SW and IG across platforms. Alongshore, coherent wave interactions governed IG stationary patterns defined by a node near the platform centreline and two antinodes on either side of concave edges. A node was generated at the platform centreline, and two antinodes were observed on either side of the convex edges for K >1.8, with the opposite pattern observed for K <1.8. Such patterns likely result in alongshore variations in wave-generated currents and erosion shaping rock coasts. • Concave and convex platforms can separate the wavefield's frequency components. • Platform edge convexity affects the dominance of frequency bands across platforms. • Coherent amplification affects the nodal state of alongshore stationary waves. • Shore platforms' refractive properties likely affect erosion along rock coasts.

GeomorphologyVol. 468
University of Auckland (NZ), University of Otago (NZ)
Marsden Fund
Life below water
Openalex Percentile: Top 33%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
0.52
AI Navigator

Ask Laika to Summarize, Analyze, and Connect papers live on the map.

Summarize Papers & Methodologies

Extract key findings, datasets, and comparative methods across publications.

Benchmark Rankings & Visual Analytics

Rank top research institutions, authors, funders, topics, and journals by Field-Weighted Citation Impact (FWCI) and paper volume with instant charts.

Connect Distant Disciplines

Bridge topological clusters on the map to find hidden collaborative intersections.