Stability and efficacy of pterostilbene nanoliposomes in cosmetic applications: A comprehensive study

Pterostilbene (PT), a lipid-soluble polyphenol known for its antioxidant, anticancer, and various other biological properties, holds potential as an active ingredient in cosmetics for its anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects. However, its application is limited by its low water solubility and poor penetration through the stratum corneum. To address these limitations, this study initially prepared Pterostilbene nanoliposomes (PT-NLPs) using a high shear-microjet homogenization treatment method, because of the distinctive hydrophilic and hydrophilic properties of the liposomes. The stability under different storage conditions of the PT-NLPs was evaluated by investigating the alterations of the particle size, PDI, Zeta potential and surface morphology, combined with the test results of Lumisizer stability analyzer. Finally, the comprehensive performance of PT-NLPs was evaluated through in vitro dermal and transdermal testing, human testing, and instrument testing. The results showed that the PT-NLPs treated by the high shear-microjet homogenisation method proposed in this paper possessed a 1.7-fold increase in the retention performance compared with the free PT solution, and no penetration occurred on the blood-brain barrier, indicating that PT-NLPs would not cause toxicity to the organism. The human efficacy evaluation found that the PT-NLPs whitening serum could improve skin dullness, brighten skin tone, and improve skin sensitivity after 14 days of use. The high shear-microjet homogenisation method proposed in this paper for the treatment of PT-NLPs improved the transdermal delivery properties of PT. The process has a broad application prospect in the fields of medicine and cosmetics.