Evaluating women's jacket sleeves designs for sustainable fashionand textile waste reduction

Finding the most efficient marker planning method is crucial to reduce cut-and-sew waste. Small adjustments to the design and pattern can help reduce the amount of fabric waste, since marking loss happens during the cutting process because of spaces and unusable sections between pattern pieces and the curved pattern edges. Existing research mainly concentrates on optimising the consumption of textile material without taking into account the design, aesthetics and functionality of the final product. On the other hand, they are mainly focused on optimizing the sleeves’ construction and in search of new design solutions, with gaps in quantitative and comparative analysis to reduce waste while producing women's jackets. This article aims to propose and explore constructive changes in women's jacket designs with 5 different types of sleeves, to assess the possibility of reducing cut-and-sew waste levels in the cutting process. There have been created 4 different marker plans for each type of sleeve to achieve the high-efficiency markers. It was found that the semi-raglan sleeve showed the marker efficiency with the best results (76.04%), followed by the raglan sleeve with 72.03% and 72.34% for the drop shoulder sleeve. Interestingly, for the raglan and semi-raglan sleeve variants, the marker efficiency is not affected by the specific geometric characteristics. The Principal Component Analysis (PCA) method was used to determine which pattern arrangement variant was most appropriate for the different sleeve types.