A study on Hawra"s and Jikgeumra"s status quo and weaving characteristics in the Joseon Dynasty

This study investigated the status quo of Hwara and Jikgeumra in the Joseon Dynasty, classified excavation trends and application styles, and analyzed the characteristics of weaving and pattern types to examine the history and historical characteristics. The relics are currently classified into excavated items, Bulbokjang, and artifacts. When classified by collection method, there are 19 items, for a total of 34 items. There are 12 cases and 22 pieces of excavated relics, six cases and ten items of Bulbokjang, and one case and two artifacts. The distribution by era is confirmed to be 11 cases and 23 pieces from the 15th and 16th centuries and eight cases and 11 pieces from the 17th century. The relics are mainly from the early Joseon Dynasty. Since they have yet to be confirmed after the 18th century, it is presumed that the use of textiles was discontinued in the late Joseon Dynasty. The relics were classified by use into clothing items, onang, daeryeomgeum, pillows, bojagi, obobyeong, emblem cloths, and fabric pieces. Clothing items included danryeong, dapho, cheollik, jangot, jeogori, and chima. The relics are rare, likely recognized as high-quality fabrics, and used at the time. It appears as a fabric with an additional pattern weaving on the base of a 4-end complex gauze, a type of fabric called Hawra and Jikgeumra during the Joseon Dynasty, and a pattern of additional pattern weaving. In particular, the thickness and density of the warp and weft yarns are considerably different, with the warp yarn being thinner and denser than the weft yarn. There are 19 cloud patterns, nine flower patterns, one lotus pattern, and five unknown patterns, with the most cloud patterns. The fabric patterns are similar to the weaving patterns of Mundan and Jikgeum from the adjacent period, and it is believed that the drawloom with Hwaroo and Hwabon was used for weaving.