Linear waves in shallow water over an uneven bottom, slowing down near the shore

The exact solutions of the system of equations of the linear theory of shallow water are discussed, representing traveling waves with specific properties for the time propagation, which is infinite when approaching the shore and finite when leaving for deep water. These solutions are obtained by reducing one-dimensional shallow water equations to the Euler–Poisson–Darboux equation with a negative integer coefficient before the lower derivative. The analysis of the wave field dynamics is carried out. It is shown that the shape of a wave approaching the shore will be differentiated a certain number of times, which is illustrated by a number of examples. When a wave moves away from the shore, its profile is integrated. The solutions obtained in the framework of linear theory are valid only for a finite interval of depth variation.

Authors

Publication Details

Journal
Известия Российской академии наук Механика жидкости и газа
Published
2024-10-19
DOI
https://doi.org/10.31857/s1024708424020081
Citations
1
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.52
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article

Linear waves in shallow water over an uneven bottom, slowing down near the shore

Efim Naumovich Pelinovsky, Ioann Melnikov
1 citations
Известия Российской академии наук Механика жидкости и газа
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
0.52
article

Linear waves in shallow water over an uneven bottom, slowing down near the shore

Efim Naumovich Pelinovsky, Ioann Melnikov
article en
1 citations

Abstract

The exact solutions of the system of equations of the linear theory of shallow water are discussed, representing traveling waves with specific properties for the time propagation, which is infinite when approaching the shore and finite when leaving for deep water. These solutions are obtained by reducing one-dimensional shallow water equations to the Euler–Poisson–Darboux equation with a negative integer coefficient before the lower derivative. The analysis of the wave field dynamics is carried out. It is shown that the shape of a wave approaching the shore will be differentiated a certain number of times, which is illustrated by a number of examples. When a wave moves away from the shore, its profile is integrated. The solutions obtained in the framework of linear theory are valid only for a finite interval of depth variation.

Известия Российской академии наук Механика жидкости и газа(2)
Openalex Percentile: Top 34%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
0.52
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