Simulated Directional Wave Spectra of the Wind Sea and Swell under Typhoon Mangkhut

A third-generation wave model is driven by the synthetic wind field combined with the revised Holland wind and surface wind product from the National Centers for Environmental Prediction (NCEP). The temporal and spatial characteristics of the wind waves and swell during the typhoon are studied, as well as the responses of their wave energy spectra to the source terms. The results show that the typhoon waves have a more complicated asymmetric structure than the wind field, and the maximum significant wave height is always located on the right side of the direction along which the typhoon is moving, where wind waves are dominant, due to the extended fetch. The nonlinear wave–wave interaction helps to redistribute the energy of the wind seas at a high frequency to the remotely generated swells at a low frequency, ensuring that the typhoon wave’s energy spectrum remains unimodal. This process occurs in regions without extended fetch, and a similar continued downshift in frequency as the wave–wave interaction occurs for the wind input as well when the waves outrun the typhoon, due to the nonlinear coupling between the wind and growing swells.