Large Eddy Simulation of Cross‐Shore Hydrodynamics Under Random Waves in the Inner Surf and Swash Zones

Abstract A 3D large eddy simulation coupled with a free surface tracking scheme was used to simulate cross‐shore hydrodynamics as observed in a large wave flume experiment. The primary objective was to enhance the understanding of wave‐backwash interactions and the implications for observed morphodynamics. Two simulation cases were carried out to elucidate key processes of wave‐backwash interactions across two distinct stages: berm erosion and sandbar formation, during the early portion of a modeled storm. The major difference between the two cases was the bathymetry: one featuring a berm without a sandbar (Case I), and the other, featuring a sandbar without a berm (Case II) at similar water depth. Good agreement (overall Willmott's index of agreement greater than 0.8) between simulations and measured data in free surface elevation, wave spectrum, and flow velocities validated the model skill. The findings indicated that the bottom shear stress, represented by the Shields parameter, was significant in both cases, potentially contributing substantial sediment transport. Notably, the occurrence of intense wave‐backwash interactions were more frequent in the absence of a sandbar. These intense wave‐backwash interactions resulted in a pronounced horizontal pressure gradient, quantified by high Sleath parameters, exceeding the criteria for momentary bed failure. Additionally, a more vigorous turbulence‐bed interaction, characterized by near‐bed turbulent kinetic energy, was observed in the case lacking a sandbar, potentially augmenting sediment suspension. These insights are pivotal in understanding the mechanisms underlying berm erosion and how sandbar formation serves to protect further beach erosion.