Design and sustainability in the fashion industry: The example of independent labels in London

The fashion industry is deemed to be notoriously unsustainable. Fashion brands and their multiple stakeholders recognize both environmental and social negative externalities that the industry generates. Fashion capitals like London accommodate innovative fashion businesses, which are expected to be sustainability pioneers. This paper evaluates which sustainability practices fashion brands in London accommodate and whether those with profound investments in sustainability achieve superior attractiveness to the customer. The research is based on data collected for 158 fashion brands. The database includes evaluations of environmental and social sustainability provided by the ‘Good on You’ platform and such characteristics as brands' affiliation with high-end design and the number of followers on Instagram as an indicator of their attractiveness to the customer. Analysis of data led to the typology of brands in London. Findings indicate that only one-third of researched businesses seriously place sustainability at the center of their business models. Even these attempts have not led to drastic changes in London's fashion industry outlook. Most successful in terms of sustainability firms are not associated with 'high-end' fashion. Customer appreciation is only sometimes on the side of sustainable firms. Policymakers and practitioners can use the results as a guide for a more critical appraisal of developments in sustainable fashion.