Modelling beach volume changes caused by moderate and weak hydrodynamic conditions

The goals of this study were the calibration of the XBeach model for moderate and weak hydrodynamic conditions in 2D mode and the determination of the volumetric changes induced by them. An evaluation of model performance was made based on the Brier Skill Score (BSS), the visual match of the profile shape (VMS), the absolute volumetric change error (m3/m) and the relative volumetric change error (%). An analysis of accuracy in determining volumetric changes in the dune coast, with XBeach applied, provided an average absolute error in determination of volumetric changes of 4.0 m3/m for a significant storm and 1.5 m3/m for moderate and weak hydrodynamic conditions in a 2D model calibration process. Simulations of morphological changes caused by moderate and weak hydrodynamic conditions for seven timeframes classified into three groups have been run in 2D mode. Within a validation process, the average absolute error in the determination of volumetric changes in the beach was ranging from 0.64 m3/m to 2.42 m3/m depending on the group of hydrodynamic conditions. A high value of the correlation coefficient (R) between the measured and modelled balance of volumetric changes (m3/m) for all timeframes – 0.79 and for the ‘strongest’ group no. 3 – 0.91 were revealed. For the remaining groups, i.e., group no. 1 and no. 2 of hydrodynamic conditions, no such correlation was observed. Furthermore, the temporal analysis of the sum of beach volumes proved that a rising trend was observed over 4 months. Thus, moderate and weak hydrodynamic conditions dominated the accumulation within the area of study. XBeach reflected this trend well, producing a difference between the measured and modelled sum of volumes at the end of the timeframe of 7.27 m3/m, which is close to the volume determination error by the model.