Prioritization, Identification, and Quantification of Emerging Contaminants in Recycled Textiles Using Non-Targeted and Suspect Screening Workflows by LC-ESI-HRMS

Recycled textiles are becoming widely available to consumers as manufacturers adopt circular economy principles to reduce the negative impact of garment production. Still, the quality of the source material directly impacts the final product, where the presence of harmful chemicals is of utmost concern. Here, we develop a risk-based suspect and non-targeted screening workflow for the detection, identification, and prioritization of the chemicals present in consumer-based recycled textile products after manufacture and transport. We apply the workflow to characterize 13 recycled textile products from major retail outlets in Sweden. Samples were extracted and analyzed by liquid chromatography coupled with high-resolution mass spectrometry (LC-HRMS). In positive and negative ionization mode, 20,119 LC-HRMS features were detected and screened against persistent, mobile, and toxic (PMT) as well as other textile-related chemicals. Six substances were matched with PMT substances that are regulated in the European Union (EU) with a Level 2/3 confidence. Forty-three substances were confidently matched with textile-related chemicals reported for use in Sweden. For estimating the relative priority score, aquatic toxicity and concentrations were predicted for 7416 features with tandem mass spectra (MS²) and used to rank the non-targeted features. The top 10 substances were evaluated due to elevated environmental risk linked to the recycling process and potential release at end-of-life.